Engine problems such as misfires in this elite class of vehicle can be expensive if not caught early. The wise motorist should take meticulous care of their vehicle in order to preserve their investment and driving experience. A malfunctioning crank position sensor may throw off engine timing resulting in piston irregularity and impact performance.
The manifestation of that problem could be in engine backfires, reduced fuel economy and ease of acceleration. When the sensor fails completely the vehicle may not be able to start. Loss of spark is also a prime suspect in engine misfire. Worn spark plug wiring or a cracked distributor cap in the vehicle may diminish spark plug functionality which would impact all of the BMW's cylinders not just one. The result is in ability to maintain the correct air to fuel mixture within the engine and a misfire occurs.
Inadequate compression may also display the same misfire symptoms as wiring or a malfunctioning sensor. A blown exhaust valve will cause an air leak which will impact air to fuel mixture the same as a cracked distributor cap.
A cracked head gasket will cause at least two cylinders to misfire and will require significant repair if it is the culprit. This article was written by the It Still Runs team, copy edited and fact checked through a multi-point auditing system, in efforts to ensure our readers only receive the best information.
It only takes a minute to sign up. I took my car to a mechanic because of misfiring issues. He said his computer told him it was an ignition coil pack issue, specifically coil 1. Anyway, he changed it and the car was still misfiring. I also noticed, prior to taking the car to him, that I'd have to wait for the car to warm up, and only after it warmed up would it not misfire.
The engine management light would also stop turning on and off. If I tried to drive the car without letting it warm up, it would jerk and misfire, and sometimes the engine would cut off if I revved too lightly. He said something about having to remove seats and so on, to diagnose the problem.
However, I have a gut feeling he's just not experienced enough to deal with this kind of issue. I've owned it for about 5 years. I don't really want to buy another car unless I really have to. I'd like to find out what the possible problem could be, so I know exactly what to say when I get a second opinion from another mechanic. At least if I show up having some knowledge, the new mechanic will realise I've done my homework and take me more seriously.
I have my notepad ready and I'm looking forward to any suggestions advice any of you can give me. The E90s are a bit of a paradox, much more reliable than the E92s and above, but the start of the end for our beloved Bavarian Bimmers. The engines run like a dream, up to about-kilometers. Once they go, the most common symptoms include loss of power, misfiring and long warm-ups from a cold start.
This happened to my N52 3. Good news is that my mechanic was able to identify the problem and with input from both the OBD II port under the dash and explicit information I gave him about drive feel, sounds and car behavior, he found exactly what the problem was without too much problem. I asked him to go the extra mile and replace the entire IC pack as well as the plugs to be safe. Diagnosing the problem DID NOT require removing anything fixed like seats or wheels or doors anything as daft as that.
Anybody who says it does is an utter numpty. Most problems can be identified through the Onboard Diagnostic port OBDinformation from the driver and a bit of experience. Find a new mechanic, someone who specializes in German cars. You can tell if a mechanic does specialize either just from the advertising or by simply visiting his garage and taking a look at the cars in his queue.
Sign up to join this community. The best answers are voted up and rise to the top. Home Questions Tags Users Unanswered.Remember Me? It comes and goes. Or maybe something will pop up and ill get an indication. About two days ago the idles were even worse, RPM going up and down on idle. The service engine soon light came on, eventually leading to a stall in the acceleration while driving.
The speed was choked and although it was moving, it felt like the car was working hard to accelerate. Bought 6 spark plugs from autozone and replaced them all since I was due for a change anyway from what I was reading.
I replaced the spark plugs, and checked the reader again, except this time it listed Cylinder 2 Misfire.? I did not replace the coils with the new ones at this time. I swapped coil 2 with coil 1, showed Cylinder 2 Misfire. I swapped coil 2 with coil 3, showed Cylinder 2 Misfire. I switched spark plug 2 with 1, showed Cylinder 2 Misfire.
I swapped coil 2 for a new coil, showed Cylinder 2 Misfire, but had a very rough idle, car was vibrating hard, worse than with the old coil. Went back with old coil 2 and the idle was fine again, still showing Cylinder 2 Misfire. For good measure I replaced all the old coils with new ones. Still showed Cylinder 2 misfire. I ran the car for about 15 mins on the road to see if the hiccup was the same.
It ran smooth with no problems. No rough idle or acceleration. The reader still showed Cylinder 2 Misfire though. Side note, new spark plugs after examining had some blackish residue, just little specs on the thread. Read somewhere it might be an indication of a fuel injector? Anybody know whats going on or have some helpful tips and guidance?
Appreciate 0. That plug has chunks of carbon on it, and it's very black. Either the cylinder is running rich, or you're getting oil in there. I would check compression across all cylinders, and replace injector number 2. Did you clear your codes before re scanning. Yeah on my scanner I clicked erase codes, read as successful and went back to checking the stored and pending codes, still showing misfire. Is there any other way to do a hard reset or is the reset on the scanner pretty accurate.
It requires me to have my engine off with ignition on to erase the codes if that makes a difference. Dont quite know much about testing compression or running rich, but ill look it up. Will also look towards replacing fuel injectors. I was just wondering if everything might be fixed and its a false error code?Remember Me?
So as the title states, i've been having an obnoxious yet consistent misfire on cyl 3 for the past few weeks. Of course I tried replacing all 6 spark plugs first dealer tripin addition to swapping coilpacks between that cylinder and another. Dealered twice, once for injector and once because they wanted to try replacing the coilpack, yet the misfire stayed in cyl 3.
Conditions don't matter, as it happens across the board both with tune and without. I've read about carbon buildup causing misfires, but from what I've gathered, it won't necessarily trigger a single cylinder as consistently as I'm getting them everytime I drive. Similarly, I've seen hints at dirty vanos solonoids causing misfires, but I know nothing about whether or not that's accurate in regards to a single cylinder.
I assume if it was a bad O2 i would see misfires across the entire bank, instead of an individual cylinder. I'm dealering the car tuesday fourth time in a month for the same problem but I'd like to have a list of places to suggest they start. Any clues what else could trigger a consistent cylinder misfire besides the aforementioned typical clues? I think this is my turbos starting to go 30FF thrown, actuators not sealing causing a boost leak but figured it may be worth mentioning.
Appreciate 0. I would rule everything out before having to remove all mods and taking to the dealer Originally Posted by Simple3. Is the injector coded in correctly? Originally Posted by BESxi. Do some research Yea there is a DIY on coding and changing the injectors, i think i have one posted on this forum too, im on my phone so i cant link you, but do a quick search and go check it liteterally takes u 10min tops.
Lieutenant Colonel. Originally Posted by GeorgiaTechcoupe. My next step is going to be valve cleaning. Originally Posted by Hoser.
E92 330i N53 cold start misfire
Originally Posted by ZTZ I don't know if would be your o2 sensors cause wouldn't you be getting for the entire cylinder bank then which would cause misfires on multiple cylinders, not just a specific one?? My o2 sensors were backwards and it caused misfires on all the cylinders in the specific bank I was getting the error code for. Brigadier General. Try a compression test With almost 40K on the clock it could be carbon build up.Welcome to world's most trustworthy automotive forum.
Thread Rating: 0 Vote s - 0 Average 1 2 3 4 5. Reputation: 5. I have a car for diagnosis that misfires alot in the low RPMs. It's pain in the ass to get it going even on a small hill. When above 3K RPM, the car runs fine and accelerates fine. If I clear the codes, the car runs fine for a couple of minutes before the codes are back. Reputation: You need to first of all service your nozzlesthen if problem persists, you need to change to your fuel pump.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk. Which fuel pump, the high pressure one? Also, I'm thinking can this be caused by clogged intake manifold? I have change a loot of high pressure fuel pump on this engine. Good luck!
Today I've looked a little live data.
The low pressure pump has a constant pressure of hPa. The high pressure pump is not doing his job. When engine is cold, the rail pressure is hPa, and when I rev the engine, it goes to about When the engine is warm, it stays at - and when I rev the engine it overshoots tothen drops to and stabilizes to hPa. I think we need to change the high pressure fuel pump!? Use Ista and work through fuel pressure and injector test modules - that will give you your answer.
Your description matches with hpfp issues. Reputation: 2. The customer is informed that this may not solve the problem completely. Will see.! Replies: 3. Last Post by chaoui Bmw E60 i kw N53 fuel pressure problem. Last Post by deinonychus. Changing abs pump to one with different number e Replies: 2. Last Post by Willisodhiambo. Replies: 0.Original Poster. Search My Stuff What's New 3 12 24 E92 i N53 cold start misfire. SoupAnxiety Original Poster posts 62 months.
A sub-8C start with a cold engine gives you a misfire for the first minute of the journey, the oil doesn't need to warm up it's just the first few seconds where you notice it. First set of lights and the revs are hunting round and delivery is lumpy with slow acceleration. Problem has been there all the time that I've had the car, it's got no worse in the year and a bit which I've owned it. No symptoms when engine warms up and no problems with full throttle when up to temperature.
The fault does not trigger the EML, sometimes you'll get a fault code with a reader for combustion misfire but the cylinder varies. Logic is that as it's cold start at sub-8C which causes the upset maybe thinner oil when cold would help? My mechanic has checked the PCV and breather pipes, no problems there.
What Are the Causes of Engine Misfire in a BMW?
Plugs were changed at k. Only other hunch is that as the N53 is a DI engine perhaps there's carbon build up. I'm also nervous that at k it would strip bedded in grime which is keeping the car happy. In a nutshell ah ha! Thanks in advance for any assistance. Do you use a quality fuel or even better, V Power? An old Clio of mine was terrible on cold start and the high octane fuel helped it no end, and improved further over the next miles I'm assuming it was cleaning.
Thanks for the reply. I only fill up with Shell V-Power. I bought it on k in October and it's on k now so it's had many a tankful to clean it out. Two oil flushes and changes in the past year, with oil and fuel filters, at k and k k was a "let's do another flush" to hopefully cure the cold start upset.
It's more annoying than serious but I'd love to diagnose the issue as a misfire does not inspire confidence. I very much doubt carbon build up would do this either. Do you get black smoke out the back when this happens? It could be a faulty coilpack which is taking time to kick in, wiring to the coil pack or possibly a duff injector, but these are unlikely if the problem clears quickly clears. I'd suspect a faulty coolant temp sensor or MAF.
Thanks nitrodave. No black smoke out the back. It's been consistently upset with cold starts over the past year, with the weather being perma-autumn at the moment you can have a 12C morning and a happy car and an 8C morning and 30 seconds of stuttering.
I'll give 0w a go for better winter protection but will stop pinning my hopes to this as a cure all - MAF and coolant temperature sensors are on my list.
I had the symptoms you describe on cold start about 2. After many things were changed by the dealer including coils, plugs, NOX sensors, Vanos unit etc a full set of 6 injectors cured the issue. How long is it since the injectors were replaced? I believe they have been updated a few times to try and get the N53 DI system working as it should.Hello There, Guest! Login — Register.
Thread Rating: 13 Vote s - 2. Threaded Mode Linear Mode. Hi guys I have had a jerking problem with my 06' i E At first it happened when i stopped at a traffic light some 4 weeks ago. It started jerking as i hit the brake. On accelerating u wont feel anything but just a drop in power. I called BMW and they towed the vehicle it was Saturday.
On Monday they tested the car and they didn't see any problem with diagnostics and i collected car on Wednesday it was fine. Today the car started again to jerk after i stopped at a service station and i drove straight to BMW.
BMW e92 325i n53 misfires
I parked the car, stopped engine and went in the BMW office. I came back with the service manager i started the car to show him and it was idling perfectly no jerking or misfiring.
Anyone who experienced this and what may be the problem. Sorry to hear of your troubles bud. I also drive a i. Whats the mileage on your car? Also check this:. I'm experiencing the same problem, when plugged in it threw an error that the 5th and 6th cylinder coils where shot. Have you replaced those two coils then? I had a similar problem. Just changed my plugs and I was back in the game. Recently picked up a misfire on my E90 i Misfire can easily be heard at exhaust when car is idling, the idle sits at about rpm and isnt very rough but you can feel a rocking motion in the car when it idles.
Car slightly underpowered on take off and up inclines. Have replaced all spark plugs and coils with slight improvement. Any ideas of what to do next? I hope you mean idles at rpm. I heard rocking issues when idling at stand still could be vanos related? And misfires when driving - possibly DISA flap related? Drummer Gamer Audiophile Beard. Yeah rpm Vanos you say? Smilies [ get more ] [ photobucket ]. You have selected one or more posts to quote.